© September 2018. Lopamudra Talukdar

Christiania - A city within a city

The name itself is a giveaway. Freetown Christiania is a city within a city, a self-governing hippie commune in the heart of the Danish capital of Copenhagen. Surrounded by canals on almost all sides, Christiania is like an island with its own set of rules, independent of the Danish government. It also has its own currency (Lon) and a flag depicted as a red banner with three yellow discs. A former military base that sat abandoned for many years eventually became Copenhagen’s alternative neighborhood of Freetown Christiania.

In 1971, a group of hippies broke down the barricades and began squatting there as a ‘social experiment.” At the time, there was no sewage system, only two water pumps, and plenty of space to set up a community independent of the government, if one were so inclined. Inside the walled complex, the group of hippies and free thinkers implemented the concept of collective ownership. Even today, as you pass in and out of the community, it’s clear that the residents see their neighborhood as distinctly different from the rest of Copenhagen.

During its relatively short history, Freetown Christiania has faced a certain amount of turmoil due to its history with cannabis, marijuana and other drugs. This self-governed area has been home to permanent stalls along Pusher Street or the Green Light District, that sold all types of Cannabis illegal elsewhere in Denmark. Despite the best efforts by the police to shut down the cannabis trade, soft drugs are still sold quite openly. But potential buyers should be aware that police occasionally patrol the area, and one could potentially be fined if you are caught possessing hashish. Visitors should also take note that harder drugs are frowned upon in Christiania, and no attempts should be made to buy (or even ask for) them. After a number of police raids in the last few years, the drug sellers are more suspicious and photography is prohibited in the Green Light District by the dealers as they prefer not to be identified. But having said all that, Christiana in general is still a safe and open place provided one respects the privacy of its residents.

Christiania is however just not about drugs, there’s a lot more to it than that. Christiania is something of a powerhouse in Copenhagen's cultural life, especially on the alternative scene, and there will almost always be something going on, in one of the many club and venues dotted around the central part or the open air scene around Café Nemoland. All through the summer, the  cafe invites you to experience two free concerts every Sunday on their open-air stage. The concerts feature some of Danish music’s most promising new names as well as classic Danish bands from the 80s and 90s.

There are plenty of live music venues in Christiania, each one with its own special atmosphere. Jazz lovers should definitely check out Jazzklubben. The small smoky bar hosts professional and amateur musicians, while on Sunday jam sessions, everyone is welcome to go on stage and play their favorite instrument. From Thursday through Sunday, the district is filled with music spilling out of Operaen café. DJs, acoustic concerts, and jam sessions take place in the colorful café until after midnight. Finally, if you want to enjoy a drink and listen to music at the oldest bar in Christiania, look out for Woodstock. 

Amidst the restaurants, cafés and music venues in Christiania, a prominent standout is ALIS Wonderland, one of the Copenhagen’s most famous skateparks. Constructed 20 years ago by two friends that were born and raised in the hippie district, Wonderland instantly became a meeting point for Copenhagen’s skate community. Nowadays, not only does it continue to attract the city’s underground crowd, but many renowned skaters, photographers and street artists travel from abroad to attend events and competitions that take place in the wooden skate bowl.

Once you pass the area where the cafés and the restaurants are, there is an entirely different world to discover within Freetown Christiania. A canal surrounded by trees and small colorful houses, many covered with vibrant murals or accented by sculptures, separates Christiania from Copenhagen’s mainland. Walk or bike along the water or simply sit down and relax on its banks. Meditation and yoga have always been popular among the locals. There are even schools and a daycare for the 150 or so children who call the area home. There’s also plenty of open spaces from courtyards and gathering places to the community’s beautiful lake that seems to attract just about everyone on a sunny day. And, like the rest of Copenhagen, there are bicycles everywhere. Some houses even have stables with horses.

After struggles with the Danish government for quite some time, in 2012, it was decided that most of Christiania would be sold to the people who live there. Residents, however, have always largely been opposed to the idea of owning property, as the town was created out of a collectivist and anarchistic spirit. The deal was made, but under the stipulation that "individuals would not actually control the land; the 'collective' would."

Though crime has increased since its founding years, Christiania still retains the community-focused, hippie-like spirit of its original inhabitants. Many of its near 1,000 residents are artisans who try to live as organically as possible. The place is a mix of hand-crafted houses, workshops, art galleries, music venues, cheap and organic eateries, and beautiful nature. It is like a society within a society. Things are pretty mellow here. Christiania prohibits running — it may be seen as a police raid — as well as private cars.

Freetown Christiania sounds ideal in a lot of ways. The residents choose who moves in (and kick people out, if they choose), most people agree on most things, they live according to their own rules, and they’re surrounded by beauty and art that they’ve made.